Attic dressing room in Bemowo
- Location
- Bemowo, Warsaw
- Materials
- matt lacquer, handleless opening, integrated LED lighting
- Timescale
- 6 weeks
We plan the inside around what's actually going to hang and sit in it, match the doors to the size of the room, and close the unit right up against a sloped attic ceiling.
Who it's for
A ready-made wardrobe has fixed shelves and rails, so you fit your things to it rather than the other way round. We start by asking what's actually going inside: how many long-hanging clothes, how many folded, how many pairs of shoes, and if you need room for bedding and suitcases too. Only then do we draw up how the inside is divided.
We design the inside around what you actually own
We count running metres of hanging rail, shoe height and the depth needed for drawers, rather than splitting the wardrobe into three equal zones from a catalogue.
The unit runs right up to the slope
In an attic, we measure the pitch every dozen centimetres or so, not just at two or three points, so the fronts close against the ceiling with no filler strips covering the gaps.
Doors matched to the size of the room
In a narrow bedroom, sliding doors don't need clearance to open; in a bigger room, hinged doors give full access to the inside in one movement.
Scope
Planning the inside
We divide the space into rails, shelves, drawers and organisers for specific contents: work clothes, seasonal items, shoes, bedding.
Sliding doors
No clearance needed to open them, a good fit for a narrow gap or a wardrobe standing opposite the bed.
Hinged doors
Full access to the inside in one go, useful when the wardrobe has deep shelves or drawers running right to the side wall.
Built into a sloped attic ceiling
The lower part of the slope usually takes drawers, the taller part a rail for long clothes. Fronts are cut to the pitch measured in that particular room.
Walk-in dressing room
Open or partly enclosed units on either side of a walkway, with room for a mirror and sometimes a seat.
Motion-sensor lighting and ventilation
A motion sensor switches the light on when the door opens, and ventilation gaps in the plinth and above the doors keep moisture from building up inside.
Styles
Solid fronts, no mirror
A single board or veneer finish, a quiet look, suited to a bedroom where you don't want extra light bouncing around.
Mirrored fronts
Make a narrow room feel bigger and do away with a separate mirror in the bedroom.
Open dressing room with an island
A chest of drawers or a counter in the middle of the room, rails and shelves around it, with no doors hiding what's inside.
Minimalist, handleless
Fronts with a finger groove milled into the edge, or a push-to-open catch that releases the door with a light press. No handles anywhere along the unit.
Materials and hardware
Inside, what matters most is hardware that lasts and ventilation that works; outside, how the fronts hold up to being opened every day. You'll find the full picture in the materials library.
Fronts
Matt lacquer
A velvety, non-reflective front sprayed onto MDF, in any colour from the RAL or NCS charts.
Fronts
Natural wood veneer
A layer of real wood, usually thinner than a millimetre, laid on a stable board that doesn't move like solid timber.
Fronts
Glass in aluminium frames
Slim aluminium frames with clear, satin or reeded glass: a light front for display units and wall cabinets.
Interiors, fittings and handles
Handleless opening
Plain fronts with no handles, opened by a recessed profile, a routed edge or a light push.
Interiors, fittings and handles
Integrated LED lighting
LED strips in aluminium profiles under wall units, in shelves and inside wardrobes, planned along with the furniture.
Process
We work out how the inside is divided after measuring the room, but before ordering the boards, since that division decides the number and size of shelves, drawers and rails. Where there's a sloped ceiling, we measure more densely than for other fitted furniture, so the fronts close against the ceiling with no filler strips covering the change in pitch.
Every stage of a projectProjects
Questions
How do you plan the inside of a wardrobe around what I actually keep in it?
At the consultation, we ask about proportions: how many hanging clothes, how many folded, how many pairs of shoes, and if you need room for bedding or suitcases. That's what decides the split between rails, shelves and drawers.
Sliding or hinged doors, which works better?
Sliding doors need no clearance to open, so they suit narrow bedrooms. Hinged doors open up the whole width at once, which suits deep wardrobes with drawers down the sides.
What about a wardrobe in the attic, where there's a sloped ceiling?
We check the pitch along the whole length of the wall, since it's rarely the same at every point. The carcass and fronts are cut to those measurements, so there are no gaps left at the ceiling to cover up.
What's the difference between a walk-in dressing room and a fitted wardrobe?
A fitted wardrobe has fronts enclosing everything inside. A dressing room is something you walk into: the units stand on either side, often without doors, or with doors only on the section holding seasonal clothes.
Does a wardrobe need lighting or ventilation?
A motion sensor by the door makes it easier to find things at the back, and ventilation gaps in the plinth keep moisture down, especially in a wardrobe built into a slope or against an outside wall.
Quote
Start with the online quote wizard, or book a consultation. We'll need the size of the alcove or room and a rough list of what has to fit inside.